One Year In China

It's the morning of July 31st and I've been wide awake, ironically, since about 4 am. It's ironic because the reason I'm awake is my lovely WeChat app has been going off nonstop and has totaled 30 messages (30 beeps) in the past hour or so. You see, my friend Cecil got married today, July 31st, in Hong Kong. Most of my colleagues were unable to attend, because like me, they're home or on holiday someplace. We don't have to be back at school until August 10th, so we're all enjoying the last of our freedom before getting back to the grind. Everyone, no matter the time zone, has been commenting and congratulating Cecil on his big day.

Exactly one year ago, on July 31st, 2014, I moved to China. It was my mother's 70th birthday, and I felt extremely guilty for having that as my departure day, but I boarded that plane and headed off for a journey I had been planning for nearly two years. The China part only came to fruition around January or February of 2014, but the going abroad again I knew I'd make happen as soon as I moved home from Italy in May of 2012. I felt very strongly that I wasn't meant to be in Charleston and I prayed and prayed to try and determine where the Lord would lead me.

In the last year, I have been tested and tried. I went through a period of culture shock, as we all do, and I certainly had to adjust to the way of life I'd lead for the two year contract period. I found China to be dirty and hot. Those two words are all that come to mind at the moment but I think they describe it pretty well. I found locating things pretty difficult, but not as difficult as I'd expected. Do you remember reading my post, "A Girl's Packing Guide?" Do you remember my mathematical equation to sorting out how many tampons I'd need for a year? I was told there were no tampons in China. This isn't true. There are a few places near where I live where I can find them, pricey and of poor quality, but I can find them none-the-less. I will say I recently had a rather poor experience with a box of Tampax as the plastic wrapping literally fell off the applicator when I tried to use them so that was a red flag, but when in a bind, they're there.

Locating items for cooking has been a bit of a stressor too. I certainly miss being able to get what I want when I want it. I've caught myself gawking in the grocery store here at items, simple things like brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes, kale and frozen pie crusts, organic products and craft beer. I know those things are random and clearly don't all go together, but they're items I can't find easily and we tend to take things like that for granted. When I tried to get spinach, strawberries, bell peppers and a few other items in Hong Kong to bring back to China, I had all the produce confiscated and my passport number written down. I had never been told those items couldn't cross the border so now I'm sure I'm marked "produce pusher" or something. Watch out...I'm practically a fugitive!

My professional experience in the last year has been trying. I spent a lot of time quite aggravated with the way things didn't seem to work and found it quite difficult to not get stressed over lack of cohesion or best practice taking place. I won't get too much into this as I don't want to place blame anywhere, but I will say I'm looking forward to a new year, a fresh start. A lot of my professional frustration came from simply being in an international school, not my little Heaven of Stiles Point. A lot of the "issues" I had came from wanting to compare the new place to the old place, and as I've said before, you just can't compare anything to SPES, for I had a wonderful experience there. The other issues came from lack of ease in getting decent school supplies. Teachers of America hear me...you may have your own frustrations (I know, I remember them), but I want you to cherish those Expo markers, Sharpies, index cards and sentence strips you use. When you turn on your SmartBoard, I want you to think of me. Heck, I want you to pull up Google Earth and zoom in on my part of the world. When you have your kids take out those marble composition notebooks or that lovely lined notebook paper, I want you to have them write a narrative about the thing they value most, then tell them about your friend Hannah who cries for joy over pencil cap erasers and three hole punches. I kid you not, everything is made in China, but nothing stays in China.

Despite all the hardships, I have had an amazing year. Last week, I sat down at my Mom's church after driving by and seeing the Red Cross Blood Mobile...I'm a freak and I really like giving blood. I went in and told the kid at the desk that I might not be able to give, but I'd try...I knew I'd been to some countries that might red flag me, but we could give it a go and see. The girl finally took me back to my little curtained off area and we went through all the questions, "Have you been with a man who's been with a man since 1986?" "Have you had any piercings since 1792?" "Have you or does anyone you know have any relation to Marco Polo?" I mean really. Then she gets to the "Have you been outside of the country in the last 12 months? Have you spent time adding up to more than 5 years in Europe?" Ummm, ok, yes. She asked me to list where I'd been since last July and I quickly started spitting out countries, "China, England, Ireland, Scotland, Australia, Thailand..." WAIT, WAIT, WAIT. She couldn't keep up. Ok, start over, so after an hour and a half and a lot of unnecessary stress on this poor girl, we determine I CAN'T donate because, and get this, I spent time on a beautiful RESORT in Phuket, which she kept pronouncing "Pookay" despite my corrections. I found it all hilarious and laughed, not at her (but sort of at her), the whole time I was there. I didn't get to donate, but I did get a free comedy hour and a box of Girl Scout cookies, so I consider it a win.

The point of that story is of course that in the last year, I have added several stamps to my passport, and that I love. Bear with me now, don't get stressed out like that blood donor lady...here's a quick review of where I've been since July 31st, 2014. Just like I had to do for her, I'll list all of the cities (if I can remember them).

China-Dongguan, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Nansha, Beijing
Hong Kong (SEVERAL TIMES)
Vietnam-Ho Chi Mihn (formerly Saigon)
Thailand-Bangkok, Phuket
Australia-Sydney, Bondi, Goulburn
England-London, Bath, Lacock, Stonehenge (Wiltshire), and other small towns
Scotland-Glasgow, Ayr, Balmaha, and other small towns
Northern Ireland-Belfast
Ireland-Dublin, Dun Laoghaire, Dalkey
America-New York, Charleston, Edisto, Beaufort, Lady's Island, St. Helena Island, Port Royal (Chicago and Seattle for layovers)
Canada-Vancouver (for a layover)
and because I had a layover there and can count a new country I added in one more for good measure
India-Mumbai

When I look at that list, I'm not overly impressed like, "Wow, look at me," but in a way, I think it's pretty darn cool. In the last year I've seen more than some people see in their lifetime. In the last year, I've learned more than most could even fathom, about myself, about my beliefs, about other people, places and cultures. I have had moments of disbelief in both negative and positive ways. I have one more year ahead of me in China and I have to say, I'm really looking forward to it.

Many years ago, my sister gave me a framed quote and it now sits on the counter as you walk in the door to my apartment in Dongguan. It reads:

To move, to breathe, to fly, to float, to gain all while you give
To roam the roads of lands remote, to travel is to live.
~Hans Christian Anderson.

I think that beautifully sums up how I feel. I am so very blessed and I am thrilled to say I survived my first year in China. I am equally happy to say that this year, I get to be at home with my Momma on her birthday, and am very much looking forward to my last week in Charleston before heading back "home" to Dongguan.

I Like to Move It, Move It

I have been home for 12 days now and for the last 12 days my family and friends have been extremely kind to let me borrow their vehicles or to drive me places so that I can visit with others and enjoy my beloved Charleston. As you know, I love to travel and I have been very blessed to have another great summer of holidays. A month ago I was in China, then I flew through India to London. I visited other parts of England before heading to Scotland. I ferried, taxied, and trained my way through the UK and then on to Ireland. I visited New York and then came home. It's been a great summer so far and I still have a couple of weeks left.

Being home is amazing and I am so very lucky to have such a wonderful base of friends and family here. The pastor said in church this morning that Charlestonians are supposed to be humble and not brag about our wonderful city, even though we're ranked high on travel lists and even though we are very proud of our home. I have to say, it's hard for me not to boast about this town.

One thing I won't boast about here in Charleston is the lack of public transportation. In every other city I've visited this summer, I've been able to get from "A" to "B" without renting a car. It's so unnecessary in so many other places, but Charleston doesn't allow visitors to the area the same luxury. When I first arrived here I felt confident that someone would let me borrow or "rent" their car from them. I have had that luck in the past, but not so much this time. No one I know offered to let me borrow their extra vehicle for the time I'm home. It's a month...I get that's a long time. I thought that perhaps I'd get one friend's car while they were on their vacation and then maybe get another's during their work trip, etc., but for whatever reason, it just hasn't worked out that way for me this summer. I'm not complaining in any way shape or form, please understand that. I'm just stating that I thought I'd be ok without renting a car and unfortunately, that's not the case.

About a week ago, I received an email from United, with whom I have a good many miles and a credit card. The email said I was offered a partnership with Hertz where I could rent a car and earn up to 2,250 bonus miles. I called Hertz, curiously, and got a quote for a month. I was told it would cost me $1,050 for the rental. I thought that was absurd. I am totally up for renting, but that to me seemed outrageous. My Volvo car payment was $450 a month...insurance wasn't too much on top of that, and even with taxes accounted for too, I don't think it'd add up to eleven-hundred dollars.

I declined the offer and spent another week waiting to borrow my mom's car or a friend's, but feeling really guilty about it because then that person who loaned me a vehicle was left without a ride. I had a friend pick me up yesterday to take me on the boat and when she, at midnight, had to drive me out of her way and all the way home I felt so bad I even asked her to stop halfway and let me get a taxi...she said no. I do have to admit that my sister's father in law, bless his heart, offered me his extra car, but it's an older vehicle for an older person and I, being rather superficial (hey at least I'm admitting it), politely said no thank you.

I became so stir crazy one day that after a nice run in the morning and good meditation time, I literally got online looking for cars to purchase. I thought, if I'm living abroad for another year or so at least, I will definitely need a car during my visits home. Perhaps selling the Volvo wasn't the best idea in the world. I've been home three times already this year and will return at Christmas. Granted, I didn't rent anything the last two times, but if I were to return and rent again even a few more times, that to me seems a lot of "wasted" money. I'm of the mindset that I could purchase something, maybe not as nice as what I've always had, maybe not an SUV, but something, and that way I'd never feel the guilt of putting someone else out and I'd never feel trapped at home. *I would like to sidebar here and say that I have been out a lot and I have enjoyed my time in the city as well as time resting and visiting at home with my mom. I'm not trying to sound like I'm ungrateful for anything and I especially don't want Mom to think that by saying I feel "trapped" I haven't enjoyed my time with her. I simply mean I don't have the freedom to run to Walgreens for toothpaste or to a friend's for a glass of wine because I feel so badly about asking to borrow her car.

I haven't purchased anything yet, but it is something I'm seriously considering. A friend even said he might go in on it with me so it's a thought I'll not push away for the time being. Maybe when I'm home at Christmas I can look at year end deals and see how I feel. I'm honestly on the "just do it" end of the spectrum.

After nearly two weeks of not having my "own" vehicle in Hanahan, a small community where my only option for transportation is either taking someone else's car, riding the Carta bus which was in fact a Bucket List idea of mine, riding a bike, walking, or taxiing, I have just gotten off the phone with Hertz again and I am accepting their offer. I pick up my car tomorrow morning. I've only rented for a week because I have been told that I can borrow a friend's car the following week, but who knows if that will pan out. At least I'll have wheels for the next 7 days. My dear mother seems angry that I'm "wasting" the money this week but I think it'll be the best $200 I've spent since I came home. I responded to her comment with, "Thank you for wanting to help, but I'm an adult and I feel like I should be able to provide this service for myself." Not sure how well that went over...

I just have to end by reiterating, I am not super fond of the idea of renting each time, but I am so happy that tomorrow I'll have my "own" wheels. It feels good because, like the Madagascar animals say, "I like to move it, move it," and tomorrow I'll be able to do so without having to ask for anyone's help!!

Ireland's in Tears

It's the morning of my departure day. Today I leave Ireland and go to New York. I woke up early this morning, as usual, and am sitting here in bed with a cuppa tea as it's quite cool today. The week has been gorgeous with sunny skies and relatively warm temperatures. There have been few instances of rain, so few in fact that I've not once opened an umbrella or put on a rain coat here in Dublin. It's been absolutely amazing.

My plan today, as I don't leave until late this afternoon, was to get up and walk down to the Church of Ireland in Dun Laoghaire, then head over to the People's Park farmer's market for last minute treats to carry home and a yummy, quick lunch. With the intensity of the rain that's falling at the moment, I don't know if either will happen. It's perfectly fitting this morning though, as I feel a bit of sadness as I prepare to leave today.

This week has been exactly what I hoped it'd be. I wanted to come to Dublin and have a low key week with little "touring" and more "at home" happenings. I wanted to visit with friends, to catch up with those that meant the most to me when living here before. I've had a lot of time to do that this week and to reflect on my time here before. I've also had time to ponder what I want the future to hold.

I've been to Dublin a few times since I lived here in 2011. I've seen some of the friends in other parts of the world when we've had the chance to meet, and I've kept in touch with others via Facebook and email. In the past when I've visited Dublin, I've contemplated whether I'd like to live here again. Actually I vividly remember that first trip back when I was sort of disappointed with the state of things here and thought I'd not ever need to live here again. This trip has been better, and I haven't felt quite as much of that disappointment, but I can say that there are things that have lost their magic. For example, I walked by my old flat and saw that it was for sale now, uninhabited, the building up for a mere 1.6 million euro. The street I remember was a beautiful one lined with green trees and lovely houses. This time walking down Leeson Park, I felt it looked neglected. There were buildings in disrepair, shrubbery gone wild, and trash along the road. The road construction in Dublin is a hot mess at the moment too, and that always takes away from a city's attractiveness.

Even with some disappointment, Dublin does still have most of its charm. I didn't go down Grafton Street or to Trinity College this trip, I stayed away from O'Connell Bridge all but one short walk, I didn't even walk through Stephens Green or Merrion Square. I didn't do anything touristy at all really, except for the Skyline at Croke Park which, in all honesty I'd not recommend anyone do unless you're truly a Gaelic football fan and want to see the stadium and museum. The views weren't all that great up there and although it was cool to walk the top of the stadium, wasn't my favorite experience here in Dublin.

I did enjoy going to the park for picnics, walking the seafront, eating at local restaurants and visiting the theatre for the very Irish "Shadow of a Gunman." I spent time with friends at their homes or local spots and really felt connected to being back here. Several of the people with whom I visited suggested, or rather insisted, I come back. One even made the point of offering to put me in contact with those at a few colleges here as I am seriously considering a PhD. I have thought about it a lot in the past few years because I really do love Ireland and I feel very drawn to this country. I know that I am meant to be in China at the moment and that I am serving a purpose there. I have absolutely no idea where I'll go when my time in China is up, but I do feel that I could happily return to Ireland. I did make the comment that perhaps Dublin isn't the city for me though, really, as I love the west coast and small, more quaint towns. I love places further south like Cork and Killarney and then of course Galway is absolutely amazing too. Who knows if I'll return to live permanently or not, but I think that Ireland's a little sad to see me go today. The rain is a peaceful parting gift as the week has been bright and sunny, like my visit, and now it's time to say so long for a short period. It's been two years since I was last here and I hope it won't be another two years before I return, but Ireland knows it's in my heart no matter where I may be, so dry up those tears old friend...I'll be back soon enough.

Short video of rain off the back patio this morning

http://youtu.be/-lvMZnKk3QA

"At Home" in Ireland

Well, after nearly 13 hours of travel time from Scotland to Belfast via a taxi, a bus and a ferry, then from Belfast to Dublin via another taxi and more buses, I made it to the small seaside town of Dun Laoghaire on Monday night.

On the morning of my departure, I got up at 5 (no alarm) and went for a run along the seaside in Ayr. I was the first to breakfast in my cute little inn and then made it to the train station before most had even awoken. Leaving Ayr at 8:40 or so, I took a lovely coach ride along the coast to the ferry terminal, nearly an hour and a half away. Then once on the ferry, I sat near the window and snoozed (don't tell Mrs. Poole) as we crossed the Irish Sea. When I arrived in Belfast, I taxied from the terminal to the bus station with a very animated driver who professed his love for me, and then, narrowly escaping his advances, I got the Air Coach to Dublin. The major benefit of the Air Coach is that it has wifi, although this must have been the first coach ever used because the interior of the bus was pretty worn, and that's putting it lightly.

I arrived at Dublin airport shortly after 5 pm and took the next Air Coach to my destination of Foxrock, just south of Dublin. My Airbnb hostess picked me up here and drove me to her house. She lives in a cute little cottage just ten minutes walking from Dun Laoghaire. When I moved to Dublin in 2011, I had considered finding a flat in the area. It's a pleasant little town, but at that time, I had decided I needed to be closer to the "action" of Dublin. For this trip, I felt ok being out here because I've done Dublin so many times and this trip was meant to be a little more relaxing.

I was happy Monday night to have a cuppa tea with my hostess before freshening up and then going into town for dinner. She drove me to a place she recommended, a little Italian restaurant called Oliveto. I sat at the bar and thoroughly enjoyed my meal. It was too much to eat so I brought home leftovers, but the pasta was amazing (and that I finished). I wrote a review for them immediately and seriously considered going back last night.

Yesterday was my first full day back in Ireland so I woke up, not so early, and decided to take a walk. I wasn't pressed for time or racing out to see anything...I know this area well as I visited here often when I lived in Dublin. I brought my sister and mother here on their visits and came often to the farmers' market on the weekends (I'll sadly miss it this trip).

I set out yesterday morning just before 11 after having some yummy yogurt with fresh raspberries and a cuppa tea. I walked the 10 minutes downhill towards Dun Laoghaire, turned left to go into the town, walked all the way down the main street, then headed back towards the sea. Along the way, I stopped in several little charity shops (the UK and Ireland are chock full of them and they are great places to find little trinkets as well as cheap books). In one shop, the first book I picked up was The Healer Within, a book using traditional Chinese techniques to release your body's own medicine. I purchased it for a whopping 1 Euro. I guess you can take the girl out of China but you can't take China out of the girl! ;)

I walked down past the yacht club and all the way out to the old light house (which now houses an ice cream shop) at the end of the pier. After walking all the way back up, I headed further down the seaside to an area where I finally sat in the sun to rest a few minutes. I read a few pages of my new book, but my stomach started growling so I headed up towards the little town of Glasthule which borders Dun Laoghaire. There is a darling shop here called 64 Wine in which Mom and I ate before. I went in to have my lunch here, debating what to get, but settling on a caprese ciabatta. Honestly, it probably wasn't the best choice as there was little flavor, but the olives they served along side the sandwich were good and made me, at about 1 o'clock, crave a dirty martini. I resisted the temptation and instead set out walking again.

I stopped in many little shops here: an antique store where I once bought earrings, a few small grocery shops where lots of special items can be found, clothing shops, and a great new art gallery. After passing through this area, I set out uphill again towards Dalkey, another area Mom and I visited. There are lots of little museums and things to do along these walks, including the James Joyce Museum and Tower as well as the Dalkey Castle Historic Center, but I've done most of them before, so this trip was more about just walking.

In Dalkey, I went in every little grocer I could find. There are so many specialty shops here. I could do some serious shopping for dinner planning. I thought about purchasing some things, but I wanted to keep walking and I knew things would spoil if I bought...yesterday was the nicest day Dublin's seen all summer and it was pretty hot for what the city normally gets.

On my way out of Dalkey, I grabbed an Italian ice, pineapple, and walked back towards Sandycove. Getting a little tired again, and wanting to read more of my new book, I found a little marina where I sat and soaked in the sun, listened to the seagulls' music and the waves crashing, and read a bit more about self healing. I think it's a bit ironic as I truly believe the wind and the ocean can heal, so my breathing was deep and purposeful while sitting there taking it all in.

Knowing I had a bit more walking to do before getting "home," I closed my book and headed back towards the cottage. I stopped in a few more shops or peeked in windows along the way, and finally made it back the cottage around 4. It seemed as if I had been walking all day, but really I'd only been out a few hours. Feeling pretty tired though, and wanting to enjoy the sun more, I went out in the back garden and read a bit more of my book. I changed into shorts to try and get sun on my oh so white legs, but my shoulders were so red that I quickly came back inside. Yesterday was absolutely gorgeous and I was outside for most of it, so I don't feel like I missed out on sitting inside a little while.

After a few hours of resting, writing reviews, chatting with friends via text and Facebook, etc., I finally got up and showered for dinner. I had considered making something myself, but sort of wanted to go back in town to eat. I poured a glass of wine (a bottle I bought in Glasgow and have been toting around with me) and then when finished, walked down to the seaside to a place I'd read about called The Hen House. I had considered going back to the Italian place, and honestly, should have done so.

The service at The Hen House was pretty mediocre. The food was ok, but not outstanding, and the atmosphere was much less intimate than Oliveto. I ate a fried brie starter and then had the lamb for my main. Nothing was stellar and with the lack of good service, probably isn't a place I'll ever go again.

After walking back after dinner, I checked my phone for the number of steps I'd taken yesterday. I walked a total of 10.47 miles and took a massive 25,457 steps. Insane. After all that, I came home and did sit-ups because I was feeling so full from dinner!

I watched my fav "Come Dine With Me" on 4 on Demand (a website where you can stream shows from the UK and Ireland) and then went to bed late, around midnight. This morning I woke and decided to take it easy for the beginning half of the day because I'm meeting a friend in the city later this afternoon.

I am so very happy to be back. People often ask me if I'd ever live here again and I have a hard time deciding to be honest. There are parts of this city that I really love. I feel so at home here, but there are also things that I don't care so much for and so I have to weigh out the pros and cons. I do feel I could live in Ireland again, but perhaps somewhere other than Dublin. Who knows. For now, I will enjoy feeling "at home" and in a week, I'll actually be home in Charleston. What a summer!!