Sunday, August 23, 2015

This Is My Life

It's been about two weeks since I've been back in China. Last weekend, while at a back to school BBQ bash hosted by the local Mexican restaurant, El Caliente, I had a moment of, "I feel at home here...this is my town." I said it out loud and as the week has progressed, I've reverberated it. I finally feel like this place is my home. It's funny because Charleston is absolutely my town, and Dublin is absolutely my town...no where in my mind did I ever feel like Dongguan would be my town, but in a way, it sort of is now.

In church this morning, yes, I'm now trying to regularly attend the worship service here at the local Christian school, the visiting pastor from Gainesville, GA said, "It's when we come back to life as we know it that we set things in motion." He was talking about how we may have good intentions during our holidays to set more time to devotionals, to study God's word more, to read books in general, whatever, but it's actually more difficult during those times to accomplish what we plan. It's easier when we are in life as we know it, and well, China is what I know right now. It's when I'm here that I do my daily devotional. It's here where I talk with God more; I rely on Him more. It was the same way in Ireland and Italy. It's because in those places, despite how many amazing people I met or things I got to do, I was really on my own and needed God's guidance more than ever. It's the same way here. I feel better as a Christian when I'm away from my life in Charleston, and that's really hard to explain or even myself understand, yet alone admit, but I think it says a lot about my calling in life right now.

This morning, a young girl who I happened to recognize from that Mexican restaurant (she's a waitress there), took to the pulpit to give her testimony about a trip she took to Hungary this summer. While visiting a refugee camp, she came to see her purpose for living in Dongguan. I don't know her story or what brought her to China, but I came to tears listening to her speak this morning because a) God's light shone through her more clearly than I've seen in anyone in an long time and b) she made a point to challenge all of us living in Dongguan to see our home, here in China, as a mission field. You know it's funny because when I was back home in Charleston my mom said to me that her friends suggested I go into missions. For several reasons my mother and I both feel that's not the best place for me, but I've said for the last year that really and truly, I am a missionary in ways because it's here in a place that not so many know the Lord, I can share my love for Him and His love through me.

The last week, although challenging as my new students came to school, was amazing. I am so unbelievably happy with the new administration and things that are happening at ISD. I am even happier to see there are more Christians on campus (praise be to God). I am happy to have settled back into life here. I am happy that yesterday I woke and planned an amazing vacation to the Philippines where I will lie on a beach in paradise for a week at the end of September. I'm happy that in the afternoon I attended a soccer tournament (who'd of thought) where I met two legit Irish people, Dubliner's at that. They will have to excuse me because I sort of want to be the third wheel on every one of their dates from now on just so I can hear their fab accents. I half pity and half envy their ESL students. I am happy that even though I just walked a mile to get groceries in the heat and then walked a mile back in the scorching sun carrying an extra 13 kg of weight (yes I hopped on the scale  after returning) that I'm now sufficiently cooled and sitting in my apartment, which you know I love. By the way, never again will you be able to complain to me for having to jump in your SUV and drive your 10-20 minutes to Whole Foods to get groceries...hear me when I say, I take no pity on you anymore. I'm happy that today I finally got cable installed and now I can watch the BBC, History channel or whatever else till my heart's content...even with Chinese subtitles, I'm happy, and yes, I see a couch potato in the making. I am happy that tomorrow I will wake and go to a job where I am excited to see changes made and to know that I'm making a difference in the lives of not only my students, but perhaps also their families and my colleagues as well. I am happy that I have met really nice people here (guys included) and even if no relationship led anywhere, I'd be able to say there is a possibility for all things in Dongguan (something I NEVER would have said last year).

At home this summer, my pastor at FBC said that we couldn't live our lives on a treadmill always looking for happiness. We couldn't move place to place looking for happiness or go job to job looking for happiness. He said that we have to be content in the life we live day to day and in God find our happiness. I met him after he preached that sermon and told him I knew he was speaking straight to me that morning. I know that I've been on a treadmill in the past and I will admit that my moving does involve looking for something, occasionally. But as I've said many times before, I came to China because I 100% felt called to move here, and in all honestly, I don't feel like I'm on a treadmill. I feel like I am exactly where I'm meant to be for the time being, and when God chooses to take me someplace else, well, it's then that I'll uproot again. He has a purpose, and my prayer is that I'll always be able to listen as He guides me through this magnificent life.

Friday, July 31, 2015

One Year In China

It's the morning of July 31st and I've been wide awake, ironically, since about 4 am. It's ironic because the reason I'm awake is my lovely WeChat app has been going off nonstop and has totaled 30 messages (30 beeps) in the past hour or so. You see, my friend Cecil got married today, July 31st, in Hong Kong. Most of my colleagues were unable to attend, because like me, they're home or on holiday someplace. We don't have to be back at school until August 10th, so we're all enjoying the last of our freedom before getting back to the grind. Everyone, no matter the time zone, has been commenting and congratulating Cecil on his big day.

Exactly one year ago, on July 31st, 2014, I moved to China. It was my mother's 70th birthday, and I felt extremely guilty for having that as my departure day, but I boarded that plane and headed off for a journey I had been planning for nearly two years. The China part only came to fruition around January or February of 2014, but the going abroad again I knew I'd make happen as soon as I moved home from Italy in May of 2012. I felt very strongly that I wasn't meant to be in Charleston and I prayed and prayed to try and determine where the Lord would lead me.

In the last year, I have been tested and tried. I went through a period of culture shock, as we all do, and I certainly had to adjust to the way of life I'd lead for the two year contract period. I found China to be dirty and hot. Those two words are all that come to mind at the moment but I think they describe it pretty well. I found locating things pretty difficult, but not as difficult as I'd expected. Do you remember reading my post, "A Girl's Packing Guide?" Do you remember my mathematical equation to sorting out how many tampons I'd need for a year? I was told there were no tampons in China. This isn't true. There are a few places near where I live where I can find them, pricey and of poor quality, but I can find them none-the-less. I will say I recently had a rather poor experience with a box of Tampax as the plastic wrapping literally fell off the applicator when I tried to use them so that was a red flag, but when in a bind, they're there.

Locating items for cooking has been a bit of a stressor too. I certainly miss being able to get what I want when I want it. I've caught myself gawking in the grocery store here at items, simple things like brussels sprouts and sweet potatoes, kale and frozen pie crusts, organic products and craft beer. I know those things are random and clearly don't all go together, but they're items I can't find easily and we tend to take things like that for granted. When I tried to get spinach, strawberries, bell peppers and a few other items in Hong Kong to bring back to China, I had all the produce confiscated and my passport number written down. I had never been told those items couldn't cross the border so now I'm sure I'm marked "produce pusher" or something. Watch out...I'm practically a fugitive!

My professional experience in the last year has been trying. I spent a lot of time quite aggravated with the way things didn't seem to work and found it quite difficult to not get stressed over lack of cohesion or best practice taking place. I won't get too much into this as I don't want to place blame anywhere, but I will say I'm looking forward to a new year, a fresh start. A lot of my professional frustration came from simply being in an international school, not my little Heaven of Stiles Point. A lot of the "issues" I had came from wanting to compare the new place to the old place, and as I've said before, you just can't compare anything to SPES, for I had a wonderful experience there. The other issues came from lack of ease in getting decent school supplies. Teachers of America hear me...you may have your own frustrations (I know, I remember them), but I want you to cherish those Expo markers, Sharpies, index cards and sentence strips you use. When you turn on your SmartBoard, I want you to think of me. Heck, I want you to pull up Google Earth and zoom in on my part of the world. When you have your kids take out those marble composition notebooks or that lovely lined notebook paper, I want you to have them write a narrative about the thing they value most, then tell them about your friend Hannah who cries for joy over pencil cap erasers and three hole punches. I kid you not, everything is made in China, but nothing stays in China.

Despite all the hardships, I have had an amazing year. Last week, I sat down at my Mom's church after driving by and seeing the Red Cross Blood Mobile...I'm a freak and I really like giving blood. I went in and told the kid at the desk that I might not be able to give, but I'd try...I knew I'd been to some countries that might red flag me, but we could give it a go and see. The girl finally took me back to my little curtained off area and we went through all the questions, "Have you been with a man who's been with a man since 1986?" "Have you had any piercings since 1792?" "Have you or does anyone you know have any relation to Marco Polo?" I mean really. Then she gets to the "Have you been outside of the country in the last 12 months? Have you spent time adding up to more than 5 years in Europe?" Ummm, ok, yes. She asked me to list where I'd been since last July and I quickly started spitting out countries, "China, England, Ireland, Scotland, Australia, Thailand..." WAIT, WAIT, WAIT. She couldn't keep up. Ok, start over, so after an hour and a half and a lot of unnecessary stress on this poor girl, we determine I CAN'T donate because, and get this, I spent time on a beautiful RESORT in Phuket, which she kept pronouncing "Pookay" despite my corrections. I found it all hilarious and laughed, not at her (but sort of at her), the whole time I was there. I didn't get to donate, but I did get a free comedy hour and a box of Girl Scout cookies, so I consider it a win.

The point of that story is of course that in the last year, I have added several stamps to my passport, and that I love. Bear with me now, don't get stressed out like that blood donor lady...here's a quick review of where I've been since July 31st, 2014. Just like I had to do for her, I'll list all of the cities (if I can remember them).

China-Dongguan, Shenzhen, Guangzhou, Nansha, Beijing
Hong Kong (SEVERAL TIMES)
Vietnam-Ho Chi Mihn (formerly Saigon)
Thailand-Bangkok, Phuket
Australia-Sydney, Bondi, Goulburn
England-London, Bath, Lacock, Stonehenge (Wiltshire), and other small towns
Scotland-Glasgow, Ayr, Balmaha, and other small towns
Northern Ireland-Belfast
Ireland-Dublin, Dun Laoghaire, Dalkey
America-New York, Charleston, Edisto, Beaufort, Lady's Island, St. Helena Island, Port Royal (Chicago and Seattle for layovers)
Canada-Vancouver (for a layover)
and because I had a layover there and can count a new country I added in one more for good measure
India-Mumbai

When I look at that list, I'm not overly impressed like, "Wow, look at me," but in a way, I think it's pretty darn cool. In the last year I've seen more than some people see in their lifetime. In the last year, I've learned more than most could even fathom, about myself, about my beliefs, about other people, places and cultures. I have had moments of disbelief in both negative and positive ways. I have one more year ahead of me in China and I have to say, I'm really looking forward to it.

Many years ago, my sister gave me a framed quote and it now sits on the counter as you walk in the door to my apartment in Dongguan. It reads:

To move, to breathe, to fly, to float, to gain all while you give
To roam the roads of lands remote, to travel is to live.
~Hans Christian Anderson.

I think that beautifully sums up how I feel. I am so very blessed and I am thrilled to say I survived my first year in China. I am equally happy to say that this year, I get to be at home with my Momma on her birthday, and am very much looking forward to my last week in Charleston before heading back "home" to Dongguan.





Sunday, July 19, 2015

I Like to Move It, Move It

I have been home for 12 days now and for the last 12 days my family and friends have been extremely kind to let me borrow their vehicles or to drive me places so that I can visit with others and enjoy my beloved Charleston. As you know, I love to travel and I have been very blessed to have another great summer of holidays. A month ago I was in China, then I flew through India to London. I visited other parts of England before heading to Scotland. I ferried, taxied, and trained my way through the UK and then on to Ireland. I visited New York and then came home. It's been a great summer so far and I still have a couple of weeks left.

Being home is amazing and I am so very lucky to have such a wonderful base of friends and family here. The pastor said in church this morning that Charlestonians are supposed to be humble and not brag about our wonderful city, even though we're ranked high on travel lists and even though we are very proud of our home. I have to say, it's hard for me not to boast about this town.

One thing I won't boast about here in Charleston is the lack of public transportation. In every other city I've visited this summer, I've been able to get from "A" to "B" without renting a car. It's so unnecessary in so many other places, but Charleston doesn't allow visitors to the area the same luxury. When I first arrived here I felt confident that someone would let me borrow or "rent" their car from them. I have had that luck in the past, but not so much this time. No one I know offered to let me borrow their extra vehicle for the time I'm home. It's a month...I get that's a long time. I thought that perhaps I'd get one friend's car while they were on their vacation and then maybe get another's during their work trip, etc., but for whatever reason, it just hasn't worked out that way for me this summer. I'm not complaining in any way shape or form, please understand that. I'm just stating that I thought I'd be ok without renting a car and unfortunately, that's not the case.

About a week ago, I received an email from United, with whom I have a good many miles and a credit card. The email said I was offered a partnership with Hertz where I could rent a car and earn up to 2,250 bonus miles. I called Hertz, curiously, and got a quote for a month. I was told it would cost me $1,050 for the rental. I thought that was absurd. I am totally up for renting, but that to me seemed outrageous. My Volvo car payment was $450 a month...insurance wasn't too much on top of that, and even with taxes accounted for too, I don't think it'd add up to eleven-hundred dollars.

I declined the offer and spent another week waiting to borrow my mom's car or a friend's, but feeling really guilty about it because then that person who loaned me a vehicle was left without a ride. I had a friend pick me up yesterday to take me on the boat and when she, at midnight, had to drive me out of her way and all the way home I felt so bad I even asked her to stop halfway and let me get a taxi...she said no. I do have to admit that my sister's father in law, bless his heart, offered me his extra car, but it's an older vehicle for an older person and I, being rather superficial (hey at least I'm admitting it), politely said no thank you.

I became so stir crazy one day that after a nice run in the morning and good meditation time, I literally got online looking for cars to purchase. I thought, if I'm living abroad for another year or so at least, I will definitely need a car during my visits home. Perhaps selling the Volvo wasn't the best idea in the world. I've been home three times already this year and will return at Christmas. Granted, I didn't rent anything the last two times, but if I were to return and rent again even a few more times, that to me seems a lot of "wasted" money. I'm of the mindset that I could purchase something, maybe not as nice as what I've always had, maybe not an SUV, but something, and that way I'd never feel the guilt of putting someone else out and I'd never feel trapped at home. *I would like to sidebar here and say that I have been out a lot and I have enjoyed my time in the city as well as time resting and visiting at home with my mom. I'm not trying to sound like I'm ungrateful for anything and I especially don't want Mom to think that by saying I feel "trapped" I haven't enjoyed my time with her. I simply mean I don't have the freedom to run to Walgreens for toothpaste or to a friend's for a glass of wine because I feel so badly about asking to borrow her car.

I haven't purchased anything yet, but it is something I'm seriously considering. A friend even said he might go in on it with me so it's a thought I'll not push away for the time being. Maybe when I'm home at Christmas I can look at year end deals and see how I feel. I'm honestly on the "just do it" end of the spectrum.

After nearly two weeks of not having my "own" vehicle in Hanahan, a small community where my only option for transportation is either taking someone else's car, riding the Carta bus which was in fact a Bucket List idea of mine, riding a bike, walking, or taxiing, I have just gotten off the phone with Hertz again and I am accepting their offer. I pick up my car tomorrow morning. I've only rented for a week because I have been told that I can borrow a friend's car the following week, but who knows if that will pan out. At least I'll have wheels for the next 7 days. My dear mother seems angry that I'm "wasting" the money this week but I think it'll be the best $200 I've spent since I came home. I responded to her comment with, "Thank you for wanting to help, but I'm an adult and I feel like I should be able to provide this service for myself." Not sure how well that went over...

I just have to end by reiterating, I am not super fond of the idea of renting each time, but I am so happy that tomorrow I'll have my "own" wheels. It feels good because, like the Madagascar animals say, "I like to move it, move it," and tomorrow I'll be able to do so without having to ask for anyone's help!!


Sunday, July 5, 2015

Ireland's in Tears

It's the morning of my departure day. Today I leave Ireland and go to New York. I woke up early this morning, as usual, and am sitting here in bed with a cuppa tea as it's quite cool today. The week has been gorgeous with sunny skies and relatively warm temperatures. There have been few instances of rain, so few in fact that I've not once opened an umbrella or put on a rain coat here in Dublin. It's been absolutely amazing.

My plan today, as I don't leave until late this afternoon, was to get up and walk down to the Church of Ireland in Dun Laoghaire, then head over to the People's Park farmer's market for last minute treats to carry home and a yummy, quick lunch. With the intensity of the rain that's falling at the moment, I don't know if either will happen. It's perfectly fitting this morning though, as I feel a bit of sadness as I prepare to leave today.

This week has been exactly what I hoped it'd be. I wanted to come to Dublin and have a low key week with little "touring" and more "at home" happenings. I wanted to visit with friends, to catch up with those that meant the most to me when living here before. I've had a lot of time to do that this week and to reflect on my time here before. I've also had time to ponder what I want the future to hold.

I've been to Dublin a few times since I lived here in 2011. I've seen some of the friends in other parts of the world when we've had the chance to meet, and I've kept in touch with others via Facebook and email. In the past when I've visited Dublin, I've contemplated whether I'd like to live here again. Actually I vividly remember that first trip back when I was sort of disappointed with the state of things here and thought I'd not ever need to live here again. This trip has been better, and I haven't felt quite as much of that disappointment, but I can say that there are things that have lost their magic. For example, I walked by my old flat and saw that it was for sale now, uninhabited, the building up for a mere 1.6 million euro. The street I remember was a beautiful one lined with green trees and lovely houses. This time walking down Leeson Park, I felt it looked neglected. There were buildings in disrepair, shrubbery gone wild, and trash along the road. The road construction in Dublin is a hot mess at the moment too, and that always takes away from a city's attractiveness.

Even with some disappointment, Dublin does still have most of its charm. I didn't go down Grafton Street or to Trinity College this trip, I stayed away from O'Connell Bridge all but one short walk, I didn't even walk through Stephens Green or Merrion Square. I didn't do anything touristy at all really, except for the Skyline at Croke Park which, in all honesty I'd not recommend anyone do unless you're truly a Gaelic football fan and want to see the stadium and museum. The views weren't all that great up there and although it was cool to walk the top of the stadium, wasn't my favorite experience here in Dublin.

I did enjoy going to the park for picnics, walking the seafront, eating at local restaurants and visiting the theatre for the very Irish "Shadow of a Gunman." I spent time with friends at their homes or local spots and really felt connected to being back here. Several of the people with whom I visited suggested, or rather insisted, I come back. One even made the point of offering to put me in contact with those at a few colleges here as I am seriously considering a PhD. I have thought about it a lot in the past few years because I really do love Ireland and I feel very drawn to this country. I know that I am meant to be in China at the moment and that I am serving a purpose there. I have absolutely no idea where I'll go when my time in China is up, but I do feel that I could happily return to Ireland. I did make the comment that perhaps Dublin isn't the city for me though, really, as I love the west coast and small, more quaint towns. I love places further south like Cork and Killarney and then of course Galway is absolutely amazing too. Who knows if I'll return to live permanently or not, but I think that Ireland's a little sad to see me go today. The rain is a peaceful parting gift as the week has been bright and sunny, like my visit, and now it's time to say so long for a short period. It's been two years since I was last here and I hope it won't be another two years before I return, but Ireland knows it's in my heart no matter where I may be, so dry up those tears old friend...I'll be back soon enough.


Short video of rain off the back patio this morning

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

"At Home" in Ireland

Well, after nearly 13 hours of travel time from Scotland to Belfast via a taxi, a bus and a ferry, then from Belfast to Dublin via another taxi and more buses, I made it to the small seaside town of Dun Laoghaire on Monday night.

On the morning of my departure, I got up at 5 (no alarm) and went for a run along the seaside in Ayr. I was the first to breakfast in my cute little inn and then made it to the train station before most had even awoken. Leaving Ayr at 8:40 or so, I took a lovely coach ride along the coast to the ferry terminal, nearly an hour and a half away. Then once on the ferry, I sat near the window and snoozed (don't tell Mrs. Poole) as we crossed the Irish Sea. When I arrived in Belfast, I taxied from the terminal to the bus station with a very animated driver who professed his love for me, and then, narrowly escaping his advances, I got the Air Coach to Dublin. The major benefit of the Air Coach is that it has wifi, although this must have been the first coach ever used because the interior of the bus was pretty worn, and that's putting it lightly.

I arrived at Dublin airport shortly after 5 pm and took the next Air Coach to my destination of Foxrock, just south of Dublin. My Airbnb hostess picked me up here and drove me to her house. She lives in a cute little cottage just ten minutes walking from Dun Laoghaire. When I moved to Dublin in 2011, I had considered finding a flat in the area. It's a pleasant little town, but at that time, I had decided I needed to be closer to the "action" of Dublin. For this trip, I felt ok being out here because I've done Dublin so many times and this trip was meant to be a little more relaxing.

I was happy Monday night to have a cuppa tea with my hostess before freshening up and then going into town for dinner. She drove me to a place she recommended, a little Italian restaurant called Oliveto. I sat at the bar and thoroughly enjoyed my meal. It was too much to eat so I brought home leftovers, but the pasta was amazing (and that I finished). I wrote a review for them immediately and seriously considered going back last night.

Yesterday was my first full day back in Ireland so I woke up, not so early, and decided to take a walk. I wasn't pressed for time or racing out to see anything...I know this area well as I visited here often when I lived in Dublin. I brought my sister and mother here on their visits and came often to the farmers' market on the weekends (I'll sadly miss it this trip).

I set out yesterday morning just before 11 after having some yummy yogurt with fresh raspberries and a cuppa tea. I walked the 10 minutes downhill towards Dun Laoghaire, turned left to go into the town, walked all the way down the main street, then headed back towards the sea. Along the way, I stopped in several little charity shops (the UK and Ireland are chock full of them and they are great places to find little trinkets as well as cheap books). In one shop, the first book I picked up was The Healer Within, a book using traditional Chinese techniques to release your body's own medicine. I purchased it for a whopping 1 Euro. I guess you can take the girl out of China but you can't take China out of the girl! ;)

I walked down past the yacht club and all the way out to the old light house (which now houses an ice cream shop) at the end of the pier. After walking all the way back up, I headed further down the seaside to an area where I finally sat in the sun to rest a few minutes. I read a few pages of my new book, but my stomach started growling so I headed up towards the little town of Glasthule which borders Dun Laoghaire. There is a darling shop here called 64 Wine in which Mom and I ate before. I went in to have my lunch here, debating what to get, but settling on a caprese ciabatta. Honestly, it probably wasn't the best choice as there was little flavor, but the olives they served along side the sandwich were good and made me, at about 1 o'clock, crave a dirty martini. I resisted the temptation and instead set out walking again.

I stopped in many little shops here: an antique store where I once bought earrings, a few small grocery shops where lots of special items can be found, clothing shops, and a great new art gallery. After passing through this area, I set out uphill again towards Dalkey, another area Mom and I visited. There are lots of little museums and things to do along these walks, including the James Joyce Museum and Tower as well as the Dalkey Castle Historic Center, but I've done most of them before, so this trip was more about just walking.

In Dalkey, I went in every little grocer I could find. There are so many specialty shops here. I could do some serious shopping for dinner planning. I thought about purchasing some things, but I wanted to keep walking and I knew things would spoil if I bought...yesterday was the nicest day Dublin's seen all summer and it was pretty hot for what the city normally gets.

On my way out of Dalkey, I grabbed an Italian ice, pineapple, and walked back towards Sandycove. Getting a little tired again, and wanting to read more of my new book, I found a little marina where I sat and soaked in the sun, listened to the seagulls' music and the waves crashing, and read a bit more about self healing. I think it's a bit ironic as I truly believe the wind and the ocean can heal, so my breathing was deep and purposeful while sitting there taking it all in.

Knowing I had a bit more walking to do before getting "home," I closed my book and headed back towards the cottage. I stopped in a few more shops or peeked in windows along the way, and finally made it back the cottage around 4. It seemed as if I had been walking all day, but really I'd only been out a few hours. Feeling pretty tired though, and wanting to enjoy the sun more, I went out in the back garden and read a bit more of my book. I changed into shorts to try and get sun on my oh so white legs, but my shoulders were so red that I quickly came back inside. Yesterday was absolutely gorgeous and I was outside for most of it, so I don't feel like I missed out on sitting inside a little while.

After a few hours of resting, writing reviews, chatting with friends via text and Facebook, etc., I finally got up and showered for dinner. I had considered making something myself, but sort of wanted to go back in town to eat. I poured a glass of wine (a bottle I bought in Glasgow and have been toting around with me) and then when finished, walked down to the seaside to a place I'd read about called The Hen House. I had considered going back to the Italian place, and honestly, should have done so.

The service at The Hen House was pretty mediocre. The food was ok, but not outstanding, and the atmosphere was much less intimate than Oliveto. I ate a fried brie starter and then had the lamb for my main. Nothing was stellar and with the lack of good service, probably isn't a place I'll ever go again.

After walking back after dinner, I checked my phone for the number of steps I'd taken yesterday. I walked a total of 10.47 miles and took a massive 25,457 steps. Insane. After all that, I came home and did sit-ups because I was feeling so full from dinner!

I watched my fav "Come Dine With Me" on 4 on Demand (a website where you can stream shows from the UK and Ireland) and then went to bed late, around midnight. This morning I woke and decided to take it easy for the beginning half of the day because I'm meeting a friend in the city later this afternoon.

I am so very happy to be back. People often ask me if I'd ever live here again and I have a hard time deciding to be honest. There are parts of this city that I really love. I feel so at home here, but there are also things that I don't care so much for and so I have to weigh out the pros and cons. I do feel I could live in Ireland again, but perhaps somewhere other than Dublin. Who knows. For now, I will enjoy feeling "at home" and in a week, I'll actually be home in Charleston. What a summer!!

Thursday, June 25, 2015

Birthday Hike-Honoring My Dad's 75th


Cool breezes and calming sounds of the rain enter my window as I sit here writing in my little room at the Oak Tree Inn. Today is June 25 and would have been my daddy's 75th birthday. Because it's a special day, I wanted to spend my time doing something he'd enjoy. Prior to arriving in this little Scottish town, I knew I'd be traveling this summer and thought about what part of the UK my dad most enjoyed when I brought the family over here. He and Edgar seemed to really like Scotland and preferred it over some other areas we visited.

My daddy loved the outdoors. He often took us to the mountains where we'd walk the trails and he'd point out the vegetation and life along the path. He often took my brother hunting and fishing, and I occasionally went along with them. Whenever out in nature, Daddy would make sure to remind us of our connection to the earth. Much like the Native Americans, Daddy believed we should show appreciation for the things we take from the earth, whether it be plant or animal. In his later years, Daddy said that he hunted no longer with the intention of shooting anything, but rather just to be out there and to be able to observe the beauty around him.

I'm like my dad in that I love being outside, but as I've said, I'm not super outdoorsy. I like to go for walks or runs and I enjoy feeling the sun on my skin, but I don't usually combine being outside and exerting too much energy (Great Wall Half excluded). I've never been very sporty and so when it comes to "outdoor activities," I prefer the low key kind. Dad used to practice Tai Chi, for example, so that's one habit I've adopted.

To honor Dad on his birthday, I thought that Daddy would appreciate a simple hike. I figured that I'd be able to manage something easy as a way to pay tribute to him. I asked a friend from home who now lives in Glasgow to organize a hike near a loch. I told him the purpose of my request, and he planned the trip. I came, pretty blindly, with him to an area called Balmaha near Loch Lomond in Scotland.

We set out this morning after a nice Scottish breakfast of tomatoes, mushrooms, sausages and bacon (I skipped the eggs and the haggis!). I had said repeatedly that I was not a hiker and didn't want to be rock climbing, but he assured me it was "easy." After the first 20 minutes or so, I thought the incline would kill me; climbing stairs was my least favorite part of the race in Beijing. We got to the bottom of Conic Hill and set on towards the top. This wasn't too terribly bad, although I definitely worked up a sweat. When we got to one section pretty high up, I made the executive decision to not go all the way to the top as it looked really steep. I was only in my running shoes so I wasn't sure how easy it'd be for me to continue on the rocks. When we got to this point, I said I'd like to take ten minutes because it was a gorgeous spot and I wanted to have a little quiet time to pray and meditate.

I laid out my rain jacket so as to not sit directly on the wet ground, set my alarm on my phone, and got into position on the corner of the hill where I could overlook the lake and other gorgeous surroundings. Closing my eyes, I began to pray. I spoke to both my Heavenly father and my earthly father in Heaven. I went back and forth between the two of them thanking them for guiding me through so many stages of my life. I breathed in and out in slow deep breaths taking in the fresh air and letting it circulate through my body, imagining its power to cleanse and renew.

Just before the 10 minute alarm went off, I heard some people coming up the path behind me and I slowly opened my eyes to reacclimate myself to my surroundings. This was an emotional minute or two. The view that was before me was absolutely breathtaking. You see, I'm not a super athletic person who wants to climb the mountain, but being up on top and having a view that overlooks such a magnificent part of God's creation made it all worth it...even if going down would prove more challenging. Spiritually on top of that hill, I felt very connected, and that was the whole point of hiking this morning. I wanted to connect to both Dad and my Heavenly father, I wanted to connect to the earth, and I wanted to breathe that fresh air so as to rid my body of the pollutants it's inhaled or consumed after living in China. I do believe there is magic in a deep breath of fresh air; whether it be saltwater or mountain, it's healing.

After meditating, my friend and I headed back down the hill, but off the beaten path. We went straight over the edge where there were lots of tiny little rocks we used as stepping stones. My anxiety level shot up as my legs shakily took me down the hill. I was pretty nervous, to be honest. Thankfully, my "guide" patiently and supportingly helped me descend, and when we got down he said, "Look back...that's what you just did" as a way to help ease my nerves. I felt proud looking back at my accomplishment. It's pretty awesome actually, that I managed to get all the way back down and not hurt myself!

The hike today was a little more adventurous than I had intended, but it was a good way to honor Dad this morning, and for me also to have time to reconnect with myself. Living in what most deem a concrete jungle, I long for green grass and fresh air. I believe that being here in Scotland will rejuvenate me. As I walked down the "mountain," grasping the rocks and concentrating on not falling, I tried also to look around at my surroundings. This is the place fairy tales are written. There's magic in these hills and I thank the good Lord I was able to be part of it today. I think my dad enjoyed it too. I've felt his presence again stronger here lately, and I know, as always, he was with me.

Happy Birthday Daddy.

Saturday, May 23, 2015

A Better Beijing and the Amazing Race

Sometime in 2014, a friend of mine from high school asked me if I wanted to do the Great Wall Half Marathon since I'm now living in China. I think I've written of this before. He asked, I agreed somewhat reluctantly, then he backed out because of military duties and I was left to do the race alone. I asked a friend from work to join me and she, although not a runner, said yes. I started training in November, but because I was already running a decent amount, I didn't have to get too serious until February/March of this year. My friend Jackie hadn't really ever run (she's super fit because of her Acro interests), so she had to get proper shoes and test the waters, so to speak. We both trained in slightly different ways. I was good for distance, Jackie was prepared for the stairs. Last weekend, our hard work in both areas paid off.

On Thursday afternoon Jackie and I left school and had a driver take us to the bus station, also known as the Dongguan airport, where we then checked in for our flight. This place is in the downstairs of a big building in Dongguan and although called the "airport" has no airplane larger than a model toy. It's a strange place honestly. Once you've checked in, you take a bus to the airport in Guangzhou which is nearly two hours away from Dongguan. When we had arrived at the actual airport, we boarded our life size plane and headed on our way to Beijing.

We were both excited because neither of us had been to Beijing before. I expected the city to be extremely polluted and dirty. I think Jackie expected the same. To our pleasant surprise, after a good night's sleep at the Beijing International Hotel, Jackie and I set out Friday morning for a day of touring the city and found that Beijing was actually quite the opposite of what we thought it would be. Walking down the road from our hotel to the Forbidden Palace, we were in awe of the cool weather, the clear blue sky, and the lovely smell of roses. Everywhere there were roses. The grass was well manicured along the roadside, and the streets, although 8 lanes across and rather full of cars, were quiet. I couldn't get over it. I felt as if we were in the twilight zone.

We headed down a side street which we had been persuaded to travel by a local guy who just so happened to say he was going the same place we were. Before you jump to attention in worry, it wasn't a dark little alley way and the older gentleman's only sneaky plan was to get us to buy art. Jackie and I knew he was up to something when he began leading us off our path, but it was a great discovery actually, this little road we wandered. We found a few stalls of street food where we grabbed our breakfast, amazingly delicious steamed buns. I am reluctant to buy street food as I never know whether or not it will make me sick, but these were fantastic. Each of us got one vegetable and one meat.

Later, we stumbled upon a precious little poetry cafe. This is the kind of place Jackie and I both could hang out for a few hours on a Saturday afternoon. Downstairs was set to look like someone's living room. There was a little table and chairs on the right side of the space and the left wall had shelves of books and trinkets. There was a guitar in the corner. Directly in front of you when you walked in was the kitchen and ordering counter. Tiny narrow stairs took you upstairs to what I thought would be someone's loft, but actually was more seating. These chairs were plush and more comfortable than the  options downstairs. More books lined the walls and art work from various places, mostly photographs, adorned the walls. We didn't have a coffee or anything, but rather bought postcards and headed back on our journey towards the Forbidden Palace.

Easily enough, although probably not the most direct route, we came to the entrance. We paid our ticket fee and wandered through the massive space trying to admire the palace itself. I made a comment that perhaps it wasn't as powerful to me as it would be to a person who had studied Chinese history. I know so little...I really couldn't appreciate it to the extent that I had hoped. It's not a beautiful property like some of the places I know and love in Europe, or even Charleston. I will say, however, that the gardens were lovely and became my favorite part of the tour.

After our visit to the palace, we crossed the street to visit a park (the name escapes me). We climbed the stairs to the overlook where we had a nice view of the city. We headed back down the stairs to the peony garden. I love peonies. I miss flowers and I miss plush green grass beneath my feet. I live in a concrete jungle now, so I took my shoes off and stood in the grass in the garden there. Had I not been ready for lunch, I'd have stayed longer, connecting with the earth.

When Jackie and I left, we headed out, with no particular direction other than an idea, and found a street with many Western shops. First we passed this precious little church though and I got a great shot of the building with that gorgeous blue sky in the background. It so reminded me of a picture I took in New Orleans.

The area we had found was the district the hotel concierge had suggested we visit. I suppose she assumed all Westerners are more interested in Zara and H & M than the history of the city. This is not the case of course, but still, I haven't seen clothing stores where I can shop for myself since I was home in Charleston so I did pop in. I bought a cute skirt and top and then Jackie and I headed back outside where we found a very Chinese area. The two streets which ran perpendicular to one another were crowded, noisy, and bustling with life. I videoed what I could. It was the first time I'd ever seen scorpions and other creatures on skewers. They were live by the way. We each grabbed other items for our lunch, dumplings for me, super spicy ones. We walked up and down the street then decided we were on overload and needed to decompress in the cool someplace. It wasn't a particularly hot day and the humidity was low, but we wanted to sit and gather thoughts. My phone was about dead too so where did we decide to go to recharge...every Westerner's staple...Starbucks.

Sitting in Starbucks I overheard some people speaking and found out that one girl was from Atlanta, the other was clearly American but I didn't ask where from, I'm guessing Chicago. They worked and had children who attended ISB...the International School of Beijing. Funny how I picked them out the crowd.

After my phone had enough charge to use Google Maps to get us home, Jackie and I set back out. We ended up getting a rickshaw, my first in China, to take us back to the hotel. We were planning to go out to dinner, but I was worried about time because our bus for the race would be leaving at 3:30 am and I also realized that my feet were swelling a bit from all the walking so I thought perhaps we should take it easy. Jackie agreed, and we went to the hotel spa for a massage. It was the most expensive massage I've had in China, about $100 USD for an hour and a half. It was a "Chinese massage and foot rub" which means your clothes are one. It's not my favorite option, but it was good enough and the room was gorgeous. There was a huge jacuzzi tub in the middle of the room and a massage table with flowers in the center next to it. Jackie and I had hers and hers chairs, much like recliners, for our massages. Clearly this was a space for honeymooners, etc.

After our massages we went back up to the room and decided to order room service so we could eat and get to bed early. We each chose pasta, Jackie had one with fish and I had a mushroom cream sauce. It was nothing to write home about, but it would do the trick. We needed carbs before Saturday's race, so I ate what I could, although my appetite wasn't great, and we went to bed probably by 8 or 9.

At 2:45 the next morning, the alarms went off and Jackie and I both got up to get ourselves ready. I had showered the night before and only needed to wash my face and brush my teeth before lathering up in sunscreen and putting on my race day clothes. We each made a bowl of our instant oatmeal and I attempted to get down what I could of that awful mush. I drank a cup of hot green tea and then suffered through a cup, my very first cup actually, of instant coffee. I don't drink coffee, but I was desperate to make myself go to the bathroom. You see, two days prior, I had suffered from an overly active stomach as many do in China, so I had taken anti-diarehal medicine. It was apparently still in my system and so I wasn't able to go like I normally would have been able to before running. I was terrified this would cause me major issues during the race. I literally prayed and prayed for a bowel movement (sorry if that's unpleasant) and after the three hour bus ride to the Great Wall, was able to have the slightest success.

It was go time. Jackie and I were FREEZING as the sun hadn't quite come up and neither of us prepared by wearing warm clothing. Note to self. Next year wear pants and take a fleece to put in storage before the race begins. In our shorts and sleeveless tops, we were shivering from the cold. The square was full of life though and soon an aerobics instructor came on the stage to help us all get warmed up. I didn't exactly participate but I danced around in my own little corner of the square while Jackie did the routine. After an hour, the race was about to begin. Jackie and I were in phase 3, so we went up to start line to encourage those who were setting off first. The countdown began and they took off, then Jackie and I raced to the porta-lets to try and use the bathroom one last time. We got in our places afterwards, took a pre race photo, I said a prayer, and then we too set off.

The first three miles were unbelievably hard in the sense that they were uphill and by the time I got to the top I thought my legs might fall off. Incline...next year train with more incline. Once we got to the base of the wall, most people stopped running. A) It's nearly impossible to run the stairs because of how steep they are and B) There were so many people on the wall you can only move at as snail's pace anyway. Jackie had gone on ahead because she tends to run a little faster than me anyway, so we had agreed to meet at the finish line. Slow and steady wins the race for me. I was never worried about speed. I wanted to do it in about 3 hours. That was my only goal, oh that and to finish on my own two feet, uninjured.

The wall itself was intense. There is no other way to describe it. It is up and down and up and down and some stairs were so steep I had to grasp the wall and REACH with my short little legs. Some stairs were so close together that made it hard to find a rhythm. Do I take one at a time, do I skip stairs? At a few points, I thought I might fall. I held the wall so tightly. My legs were shaking. My neck was hurting because I had been looking down for so long, nearly two hours to be exact. I was scared, honestly. Finally, after about two miles of this, we passed the place were the race began and the wall portion of the half marathon was over. Now we had to run through the village.

The first two miles of this portion were on a paved road. This wasn't too difficult. People were standing all along the road cheering us on and giving us high fives. Children, little old ladies, you name it. Their spirit and enthusiasm was infecting. Then we went through a smaller village along what I believe was called Goat Path. I know why now...there were legitimate goats blocking the road at times. Running this wasn't too hard though. The ground was uneven and I had been warned to watch my footing, so that I did. Then we went up. I was with another person I'd met a long the way, a former teacher from DC. She said she couldn't believe the quality of the path. It wasn't a path. It was more like one person went up so we all followed. I wish I had pictures of this area. It was narrow, steep, rocky, and a bit dangerous.

We circled around and through the village and I have to admit I ended up walking a little bit here. Then a guy passed me, a guy I'd seen in the first phase take off for the marathon. As he passed he said, "Come on, don't quit now, you got it." Right behind him another marathon runner passed, one I'd noticed also in the first wave because he was wearing a North Carolina t-shirt. He said the same, "Come on. Keep going!" I thought of my friend Mary Beth; she'd tell me to run, so I did. These two guys had given me the boost of energy and moral I needed (I had also taken an energy gel at mile 9).

I started running again. I think I was at mile 10 by this time. The rest of the race would be on the paved section of the road again. I could do this. This was flat, the home stretch. I ran, and ran, and then, ugh, walked, but then ran again and eventually, I FINISHED. I came in at 3 hours 24 minutes, just at the 3 hour mark I wanted. Yes, I would have preferred to be under that time, but I had never run a half marathon before and I'd certainly NEVER anticipated the Great Wall to be easy, so I'm extremely proud of myself. What a rush. Going through that finish line and getting my medal was...magic. I was on a high...cloud nine. Jackie and I met up and ate our Subway sandwiches after my stomach had settled a little. I had been a little nauseous at first. Actually, Jackie had already eaten one of her subs and a banana. I knew I needed to eat quickly, but first I drank two waters. I had been hydrating the whole way and ran most of the race with a water bottle stuck in my bra, but I couldn't eat immediately. A short time later I had the first of my two subs, then was able to eat the second. I've never eaten so much in one sitting, but they say you have to eat to make sure your muscles don't deteriorate.

Jackie and I went and had massages, filthy dirty and covered with layers of salt from sweat, but everyone else was doing it and the "therapists" didn't seem to mind. We had grabbed beers and then when our massages were over, we got on the bus to head back to the hotel. What a morning it had been.

I looked at my phone and it said I'd taken over 36,000 steps so far that day. That's insane to me. The sky was so blue and the day so perfect. I knew my angels were with me and I was feeling so blessed. Jackie and I had done it. We had completed a race that some only dream of and others can't possibly even fathom. It was less about the race and more about the Great Wall in my opinion, but together, the two made an amazing experience. I'll definitely do it again next year. Even though the next day was spent icing my knees and ankles, even though I could hardly walk for three more days after the race, it was totally worth it. I am so proud of us and feel so lucky to have been able to participate in something so massive on one of the world's most famous monuments.


*Side note, I was speaking to someone yesterday and it hadn't occurred to me before, but there is a strong likelihood that the pollution was nearly nonexistent in Beijing last weekend because this was such an international event. It's said that more than likely, the factories were shut down so that the visitors to Beijing wouldn't see the true state of things. I don't know if there is truth to this or not, but I did find it rather suspicious that a city known for its pollution would have such beautiful skies for two days straight. Leaving on Sunday, the sky was much more gray. Interesting none the less.